trango tower (6286-m)
The northwest of Great Trango is the Trango Tower (6,239 m), often called "Nameless Tower". This is a very large, pointed, rather symmetrical spire which juts 1000 m out of the ridgeline. North of Trango Tower is a smaller rock spire known as "Trango Monk." To the north of this feature, the ridge becomes less rocky and loses the large granite walls that distinguish the Trango Towers group and make them so attractive to climbers; however the summits do get higher. These summits are not usually considered part of the Trango Towers group, highest summit on the ridge, Trango Ri (6,363 m), lies northwest of Trango II.
Climbing History:
Great Trango was first climbed in 1977 by Galen Rowell, John Roskelley, Kim Schmitz, Jim Morrissey and Dennis Hennek by a route which started from the west side and climbed a combination of ice ramps and gullies with rock faces, finishing on the upper South Face.
The first successful climb of and return from the East Summit was in 1992, by Xaver Bongard and John Middendorf, via "The Grand Voyage", a route parallel to that of the ill-fated Norwegians, and the only route ever completed up the 1,340m east-southeast headwall. These two climbs have been called "perhaps the hardest big-wall climbs in the world.
Summary
|
Name of Peak:
|
Trango Tower
|
Elevation:
|
6,286-m (22,623 ft)
|
|
Range:
|
Karakoram
|
Location:
|
Baltoro Askoli/ Baltistan
|
|
Best Period:
|
June – September
|
Base Camp height
|
4600-M
|
|
Altitude:
|
35°– 47 N
|
Longitude:
|
76° - 12E E
|
|
Ideal Duration:
|
35 days
|
First Ascent
|
July 1977,1992
|
|
Camp required
|
03
|
Zone Type
|
permitted
|
Itanarary
|
Day
|
Program
|
time |
Hight |
|
|
1
|
Welcome to Pakistan (Islamabad
|
|
|
Hotel |
|
2
|
Fly to Skardu subject to weather ,Drive to Chilas
|
12-13hrs |
|
Hotel |
|
3
|
Drive from Chilas to Skardu
|
8-9hrs |
|
Hotel |
|
4
|
Free day/Prepration/sight seeing
|
|
|
Camp |
|
5
|
Drive to Askoli by Jeep
|
6-7hrs |
3000 -m |
Camp |
|
6
|
Trek to Jula
|
5-6hrs |
3250-m |
Camp |
|
7
|
Trek to Paju Camp
|
6-7hrs |
3460-m |
Camp |
| 8 |
Trek to Trango Base Cam |
5-6hrs |
4300-m |
Camp |
|
9-30
|
Acclimatation/Climbing Day
|
|
|
Camp |
|
26
|
Trek back to Koro Fong
|
5-6hrs |
3150-m |
Camp |
|
27
|
Trek to Askoli ,Drive to Skardu by Jeep
|
8-9hrs |
|
Camp |
|
28
|
Fly to Islamabad ,subject to weather Drive to Chils
|
8-9hrs |
|
Hotel |
|
29
|
Drive from Chilas to Islamabad
|
12-13hrs |
|
Hotel |
|
30
|
Onward to your own Distinations
|
|
|
|