Kapura Peak (6350-M)

This spectacular peak located in beautiful rock paradise Nangma valley Kanday Baltistan.
In early September 2013 the Portuguese climbers Daniela Teixeira and Paulo Roxo made the first ascent Kapura South (6350m) in the Nangma Valley, Karakoram, Pakistan, via their route Never Ending Dreams (1300m, M4).

From 6 - 9 September Daniela Teixeira and Paulo Roxo made the first ascent of Kapura South, a beautiful 6350m peak located in Pakistan's Nangma Valley and a sister summit of the main Kapura Peak (6544m). The two climbers from Portugal climbed a 1300m line up the SW Ridge past difficulties up to M4 and 70° ice and theirs is the first route from the Nangma Valley. Kapura's main summit was first climbed in 2004 by Doug Chabot, Steve House, Bruce Miller, Marko Prezelj and Steve Swenson from the Charakusa side, while in 2009 Marek Holecek and Jan Doudlebsky added another route from the same side, namely Wild Wings (1300m, WI5+ M7, 70°).


Name Of Peak: Kapura Peak Elevation: (6350-M)
Range:       Karakoram Location: Kanday/ Baltistan
Best Period: June – September Base Camp height 4500-M
Longitude: 70° – 07E    
Ideal Duration: 30days First Ascent 2004
Camp required 2-3 Zone Type






Day Program Time Hight Over Night 
1 Welcome to Pakistan (Islamabad)     500-M Hotel
2 Flight  to Skardu subject to weather ,Drive  to Chilas     12-13hrs  1200-M Hotel
3 Drive from Chilas to Skardu 8-9hrs  2450-M  Hotel
4 Free day/Preparation/sight seeing    2450-M  Hotel
5 Drive to Kanday       5-6hrs    2850-M Camp
6 Trek  to Minguloo Broq       3-4hrs   3250-M  Camp
7 Trek to Base  Camp           4-5hrs  4200-m Camp 
8-25 Acclimatation/Climbing Day          Camp    
26 Trek back to  Kanday          5-6hrs 2850-M Camp     
27 Drive to Skardu  5-6hrs         2450-M Hotel
28 Fly to Islamabad ,subject to weather  Drive to Chils  8-9hrs 1200-M Hotel   
29 Drive from Chilas to Islamabad       12-13hrs  500-M Hotel  
30    Onward to your own Destinations