trango tower (6286-m)

The northwest of Great Trango is the Trango Tower (6,239 m), often called "Nameless Tower". This is a very large, pointed, rather symmetrical spire which juts 1000 m out of the ridgeline. North of Trango Tower is a smaller rock spire known as "Trango Monk." To the north of this feature, the ridge becomes less rocky and loses the large granite walls that distinguish the Trango Towers group and make them so attractive to climbers; however the summits do get higher. These summits are not usually considered part of the Trango Towers group, highest summit on the ridge, Trango Ri (6,363 m), lies northwest of Trango II.

Climbing History:

Great Trango was first climbed in 1977 by Galen Rowell, John Roskelley, Kim Schmitz, Jim Morrissey and Dennis Hennek by a route which started from the west side and climbed a combination of ice ramps and gullies with rock faces, finishing on the upper South Face.

The first successful climb of and return from the East Summit was in 1992, by Xaver Bongard and John Middendorf, via "The Grand Voyage", a route parallel to that of the ill-fated Norwegians, and the only route ever completed up the 1,340m east-southeast headwall. These two climbs have been called "perhaps the hardest big-wall climbs in the world.

Summary

Name of Peak:

Trango Tower

Elevation:

6,286-m (22,623 ft)

Range:      

Karakoram

Location:

Baltoro Askoli/ Baltistan

Best Period:

 June – September

Base Camp height

4600-M

Altitude:          

35°–  47 N

Longitude:

76° - 12E E

Ideal Duration:

35 days

First Ascent

July  1977,1992 

Camp required

03

Zone Type

permitted

Itanarary

Day

Program

time Hight  

1

Welcome to Pakistan (Islamabad      

    Hotel

2

Fly to Skardu subject to weather ,Drive  to Chilas        

12-13hrs     Hotel

3

Drive from Chilas to Skardu    

8-9hrs     Hotel

4

Free day/Prepration/sight seeing      

    Camp 

5

Drive to Askoli by Jeep            

6-7hrs 3000 -m Camp

6

Trek  to Jula     

5-6hrs 3250-m Camp

7

Trek to Paju Camp    

6-7hrs  3460-m  Camp
    8 Trek to Trango Base Cam              5-6hrs 4300-m  Camp

 9-30

Acclimatation/Climbing Day  

    Camp

26

Trek back to  Koro Fong           

 5-6hrs 3150-m Camp 

27

Trek to Askoli ,Drive to Skardu  by Jeep 

8-9hrs   Camp 

28

Fly to Islamabad ,subject to weather  Drive to Chils 

8-9hrs    Hotel

29

Drive from Chilas to Islamabad   

  12-13hrs    Hotel

30

   Onward to your own Distinations