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Latok Group (7145-M,7108-M, 6949-M)

Latok (I, 7145,II,7108,III,6949,IV, 6456) group is a small cluster of dramatic rock peaks in the Panmah Muztagh, part of the central Karakoram mountain range in Pakistan. They lie just to the east of the Ogre group, dominated by Baintha Brakk. To the immediate south of the Latok group lies the Baintha Lukpar Glacier, a small tributary of the Biafo Glacier, one of the main glaciers of the Karakoram. On the north side of the group lies the chocti Glaciers. The group comprises four main summits, each listed here with its relative position in the group, elevation, and first ascent date:

Latok I, north-central, 7,145 m, climbed 1979
Latok II, west, 7,108 m, climbed 1977
Latok III, east, 6,949 m, climbed 1979
Latok IV, southeast, 6,456 m, climbed 1980
 

Latok I was first climbed in 1979 by a Japanese expedition led by Naoki Takada; the first summit party comprised Sin'e Matsumi, Tsuneo Shigehiro, Yu Watanabe, and they were followed three days later by Hideo Muto, Jun'ichi Oku, and Kota Endo. They started from the Baintha Lukpar Glacier and climbed a buttress to reach the East Ridge.

The steep North Ridge of Latok I, 2,500 m (8,200 ft) high, is a notorious unclimbed route: it was first attempted,  by the   American  climbers Jim Donini Michael Kennedy, George Lowe, and Jeff Lowe. The lightweight style of this climb was widely admired, despite the lack of a summit.

Latok II saw its first ascent in 1977, by an Italian group led by Arturo Bergameschi. (This was the first successful ascent in the group.) They climbed the southeast face of the peak, and second summit was in 1997.

The first ascent of Latok III came in 1979, when a Japanese team under the leadership of Yoji Teranishi climbed the Southwest Ridge route. They climbed the Southwest Ridge, and the summit party were Teranishi, Kazushige Takami, and Sakae Mori.

Summary:

Name of Peaks: Latoq,I,II,III, Elevation: 7145-M (26,23442ft)),7108-M (23,320ft),6949 (22799FT)
Range:      

Karakoram

 Location: Askoli/Biafo Glaciers  Baltistan
Best Period: 15 June –  August Base Camp height 4000-M
Latitude         35°– 38,35-,35-92 ,35-95N Longitude: 75° – 25 ,75-23,75-96 E
Ideal Duration: 35 days First Ascent 1979,1977,1979,
Camp required 03

Zone Tyep

Permitted

Itinerary:

Days program Time Hight Over Night
1 Welcome to Pakistan (Islamabad)   500-M Hotel
2 Flight  to Skardu,subject to weather,Drive to  chilas 12-13hrs 1200-M Hotel
3 Drive from Chilas to Skardu     8-9hrs 2450-M Hotel

 
4 Free day  Preprations sight seeings          Camp

 
5 Drive to Askoli   6-7hrs    3060m    Camp
6 Trek  to Namla  camp                                               5-6hrs 3300-m Camp

 
7 Trek to Mango Camp     5-6 hrs  3500-m Camp

 
8 Trek to Basecamp   3-4hrs 3800-M Camp

 
  9-30 Acclimataion  -Climbing day          Camp

 
31 Trek back to mango camp                                    7-8hrs  4500-M Camp

 
32 Trek to Askoli Village                                                                   3050-M Camp
33 Drive to Skardu  by jeep     7-8hrs 2450-M

Hotel
34 Flight to Islamabad,subject to weather,Drive to Chilas 8-9hrs 1200-M Hotel

 
35 Onward to your own Distinations