Latok Group (7145-M,7108-M, 6949-M)
Latok (I, 7145,II,7108,III,6949,IV, 6456) group is a small cluster of dramatic rock peaks in the Panmah Muztagh, part of the central Karakoram mountain range in Pakistan. They lie just to the east of the Ogre group, dominated by Baintha Brakk. To the immediate south of the Latok group lies the Baintha Lukpar Glacier, a small tributary of the Biafo Glacier, one of the main glaciers of the Karakoram. On the north side of the group lies the chocti Glaciers. The group comprises four main summits, each listed here with its relative position in the group, elevation, and first ascent date:
Latok I, north-central, 7,145 m, climbed 1979 |
Latok II, west, 7,108 m, climbed 1977 |
Latok III, east, 6,949 m, climbed 1979 |
Latok IV, southeast, 6,456 m, climbed 1980 |
|
Latok I was first climbed in 1979 by a Japanese expedition led by Naoki Takada; the first summit party comprised Sin'e Matsumi, Tsuneo Shigehiro, Yu Watanabe, and they were followed three days later by Hideo Muto, Jun'ichi Oku, and Kota Endo. They started from the Baintha Lukpar Glacier and climbed a buttress to reach the East Ridge.
The steep North Ridge of Latok I, 2,500 m (8,200 ft) high, is a notorious unclimbed route: it was first attempted, by the American climbers Jim Donini Michael Kennedy, George Lowe, and Jeff Lowe. The lightweight style of this climb was widely admired, despite the lack of a summit.
Latok II saw its first ascent in 1977, by an Italian group led by Arturo Bergameschi. (This was the first successful ascent in the group.) They climbed the southeast face of the peak, and second summit was in 1997.
The first ascent of Latok III came in 1979, when a Japanese team under the leadership of Yoji Teranishi climbed the Southwest Ridge route. They climbed the Southwest Ridge, and the summit party were Teranishi, Kazushige Takami, and Sakae Mori.
Summary:
Name of Peaks: |
Latoq,I,II,III, |
Elevation: |
7145-M (26,23442ft)),7108-M (23,320ft),6949 (22799FT) |
Range: |
Karakoram
|
Location: |
Askoli/Biafo Glaciers Baltistan |
Best Period: |
15 June – August |
Base Camp height |
4000-M |
Latitude |
35°– 38,35-,35-92 ,35-95N |
Longitude: |
75° – 25 ,75-23,75-96 E |
Ideal Duration: |
35 days |
First Ascent |
1979,1977,1979, |
Camp required |
03 |
Zone Tyep
|
Permitted
|
Itinerary:
Days |
program |
Time |
Hight |
Over Night |
1 |
Welcome to Pakistan (Islamabad) |
|
500-M |
Hotel |
2 |
Flight to Skardu,subject to weather,Drive to chilas |
12-13hrs |
1200-M |
Hotel |
3 |
Drive from Chilas to Skardu |
8-9hrs |
2450-M |
Hotel
|
4 |
Free day Preprations sight seeings |
|
|
Camp
|
5 |
Drive to Askoli |
6-7hrs |
3060m |
Camp |
6 |
Trek to Namla camp |
5-6hrs |
3300-m |
Camp
|
7 |
Trek to Mango Camp |
5-6 hrs |
3500-m |
Camp
|
8 |
Trek to Basecamp |
3-4hrs |
3800-M |
Camp
|
9-30 |
Acclimataion -Climbing day |
|
|
Camp
|
31 |
Trek back to mango camp |
7-8hrs |
4500-M |
Camp
|
32 |
Trek to Askoli Village |
|
3050-M |
Camp |
33 |
Drive to Skardu by jeep |
7-8hrs |
2450-M |
Hotel
|
34 |
Flight to Islamabad,subject to weather,Drive to Chilas |
8-9hrs |
1200-M |
Hotel
|
35 |
Onward to your own Distinations
|
|
|
|
|